As the daughter of a 30-year-old tailor wants to say one, two, three.

as the daughter of a 30-year-old tailor, I have five years of experience in Taobao, bought two small gold diamonds, and still lose my family. I spent a lot of time reading Douban MM photo albums and overcoat growing grass activities this winter. Finally, I felt deeply: you are all so lame! When she was young, my mother used to tailor her clothes to the top leaders in the province. The man is now vice-premier of the State Council, and the photo is still hanging in the window of a certain unit. At home, she can use an old flying man sewing machine from the 1970s to make a men's suit for my father to wear, and the collar of the suit is still as flat as new. Before I was in the third year of high school, I had not only socks and underwear, but also my school uniform. I never spent a penny on clothes. Every year, parents come to my house to learn. How to cut this skirt, how much cloth to use in that shirt, and how to hook a sweater. In many ways, my mother is always on the defensive, and all the aunts are satisfied and return. 

The first thing my mother taught me is to choose the first element of clothes, not color, not style, not fashion, but material. Clothes made of good material are not only a matter of time to wear but also a matter of taste and accomplishment. For example, it is wrinkled after wearing it for a year, and even the best iron is ironed. Is there a difference between this kind of material and garbage? Of course, with the progress of the times, new materials emerge one after another. My mother, an old tailor, used to be able to report "70% wool, 20% acrylic fiber, 10% spandex" and so on with a touch of her fingers. In recent years, she has often expressed incompetence in identification. Second, foreign garbage is very popular. A lot of foreign garbage you say is not a good material, people are real leather, but ravaged in many ways has become a floating cloud-this is why you find some clothes look good when you try them on in the store. I can't wait to cut it into rags within a few days of taking it home. If the material is destroyed, it will be in vain no matter how good it looks. Good materials are the foundation of many big European and American brands, especially front-line men's wear. I have a men's shirt at home. I simply don't even have a pocket. My mother says the factory price is thousands. Generally speaking, the ex-factory price of Chinese OEM clothing is not bad if it has 30% of the price of the tag. You can think about the grade of this men's shirt, which will sell for more than 3000 yuan in 2000. Where on earth is it expensive? The price lies in the material. This light gray fabric contains silk, shining in the sun as if covered with gold thread; printing embossed solid, do not need to touch, you can feel a subtle sense of sculpture; there is also a bright red embroidery part, turn the clothes over, you can see that they are all filled with red brocade lines.

I have a lot of MM to say, and I don't have a tailor's mother. How can I judge whether the material is good or not? It's very simple.  look at the washing mark. There are washing marks on the inside of the brand's clothes. The more sophisticated the logo, the better the brand and the more trustworthy it is. The labels of good brands are written, and the real front-line brands often leave a pinch of the same color line and a piece of the same color material for you to identify. Wool, cotton, chemical fiber, as soon as you burn it. If the winter dress logo says it contains acrylic spandex, basically you can't expect it to go without billing that's impossible. True pure wool does not pill, but pure wool shrinks. Do not shrink is not good wool, the so-called non-shrinking new process has additives, do not wear closely, do not expect to wear for many years. Chemically treated wool is certainly not as warm as shrunken pure wool. There are T-shirts with slippery fabrics and T-shirts with great elasticity, which are not pure cotton and will pilling; if it is Lycra cotton, they are generally getting bigger and bigger, loose after a few years, and the printing is easy to fall off; the top Leica elastic cotton is not big, but the surface is easy to grind and look old. So don't be greedy, don't expect any precious material in this world that is not afraid of being ravaged. Many MM want to say again, is it not good material clothes without washing mark? Not necessarily. Now there are so many OEM factories and so many brands in China. 

There are many domestic brands, quality control is good, but the awareness of the logo is very poor. For example, there is a brand in Hangzhou in the past two years, which is called MO&CO, which has opened chain stores all over the country. The style is between Europe and the United States and the Japanese system, playing the version to follow the trend of the big brand, update very quickly. As long as a slightly thinner girl, casually looking for, can wear a very beautiful set to go out. But I have been to several of his specialty stores and found that the washing label is not strict. Ingredients are not standard, auxiliary materials are not standard, the main ingredients are only written in the big head, blended several times I suspect that the label is wrong. But what do you want people to do with this? We can only learn more and accumulate our own experiences. In addition to the material,  cutting is also relatively important. On the surface, cutting is a matter of style, but in fact, cutting is the most test of the tailor's plate-like ability. Some time ago, many Hanfu enthusiasts criticized the Dream of the New Red Mansion. one of the important reasons is that the actors' costumes are not "beautiful". This thing is used in the clothes when photographing the old Red Mansion. To put it simply, adding a piece of interlining to the gap between the clothes can make the Oriental's flat figure look plump, tall, tall, and straight immediately, and its posture will naturally be beautiful. The principle of "cutting" is very simple, but it is extremely testing the skill of tailoring. It is very fastidious about how big and thick it is, what shape it is, and where it is affixed. Modern clothing cutting, because there is a unified model, that is, my mother did the work and then handed it over to the assembly line workshop production, so you do not expect workshop workers to master any cutting.

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 My mother's factory was like this: take a foreign order and send a sample. My mother is responsible for cutting out the front piece, rear piece, neckline, sleeves, and so on with soft Kraft cardboard without moving the original, and drawing a partition chart indicating S, M, L, XL sizes. This work usually takes a day or two, and then a complete copy is made with cardboard control. The workshop makes batch copies step by step according to my mother's procedure. If there is something wrong with the material or cutting off a piece of clothing, it is a fatal thing. Good clothes are often so useless. To buy or people who wear clothes, the material can still be seen, touched, and picked, but if it is not cut properly, there is nothing they can do. Often see A girl wearing a skirt, thin and long, beautiful, B-girl and A girl feel the same style, also going to wear, why put on the unspeakable awkwardness? It is because of the details of the figure that is not suitable for girl B, it is a mistake to make a mistake. 

The most useful thing to choose a cut is to choose jeans. To get a pair of jeans, in addition to looking at the size and shape of the pants, the most important thing is to see whether the buttocks are covered at the back of the jeans. The way to do this is to hold the waistband with both hands and spread it with your fingers so that the waistband is barrel-shaped-if the back pocket is flat, don't buy it. The back is round, the wiring is smooth and a little oblique, is a good pant, put on a hip-lifting effect, squatting is not easy to walk. There is nothing to say about coat cutting, everyone is good at it. I am very concerned about the reverse of a piece of clothing, whether the joint in  is well done, and whether it is neatly reeled and wrapped on the side. I won't buy that kind of clothes with no lining, burrs inside, and crooked thread, no matter how beautiful they are. No lining is not stereotyped, and it will be rubbish before long. Another detail of appraisal workmanship is the buttonhole. No matter whether it is a coat or trousers, take a look at the buttonhole first. One end is pointed and the other end is round. It looks like a horizontal thumbtack. 

It must be shipped by a large regular processing factory. Because that kind of round sewing requires a special machine, one is 50,000 yuan, and the general small clothing factory is not willing to buy it at all. If both ends are pointed, but the stitches are tight, the goods should be passable. If the buttonhole is full of broken hair and the stitches are in a mess, then. Finally, let's talk about color. The color system suitable for everyone is different, but they will also encounter the problem of discoloration of clothes. There are a lot of life tips on the Internet, such as soaking in salt and so on. Clothes that fade will fade no matter how they are handled. To declare that the real cotton textile clothes, discoloration is normal. Add chemical fiber, that is, petrochemical accessories (why Mao must say so thoroughly! ), it won't fade. Of course, if the chemical treatment before leaving the factory, the color loss can be greatly reduced, but by the same reasoning, this kind of clothes should also be avoided as close as possible. So don't take off the color as a measure of whether your clothes are good or bad. Thank you.